我常用的痘痘护理液

每过一段时间,都会有朋友要求推荐一款抗痘的产品。

与其在回复中简单又重复的回答,不如开一个新的Post详细谈谈吧。

我的皮肤虽然不算差,但因为油性的关系,所以一旦过于疲劳或者饮食不注意,也会发痘痘。发的不多,每次三五粒,但足以让脸很难看。所以我一直都用Paula’s Choice的那款2% Beta Hydroxy Acid精华液

正如产品名称,这款产品的核心成分就是2%的水杨酸(salicylic acid)。熟悉我这个博客的朋友都知道,在谈到抗痘问题时,含有水杨酸的产品是我的不二之选。

选择理由
  • 维甲酸虽然是皮肤科医生的标准用药,但毕竟刺激性过大,而且是处方药,不适宜作为护肤用品推荐;
  • 诸如过氧化苯、硫磺、茶树精油等成分主要作用是杀菌,治标不治本;
  • 至于水杨酸和果酸,虽然都有调理皮肤代谢的功效,不过前者是油性成分,对于黑头白头的效果更好,所以个人最为偏好。如果你对水杨酸的功效有详细兴趣,不妨阅读一下文末从Puala成分辞典中引用的关于salicylic acid的介绍。

说回Paula’s Choice2% Beta Hydroxy Acid精华液。含有水杨酸的产品很多,之前也用过C&C的一款。不过类似产品最大的问题就在于,因为水杨酸是油溶性成分,所以往往大量含有酒精作为溶剂,对于敏感性皮肤,这就是大麻烦了。即使非敏感性皮肤,如果痘痘破裂了,用上去也痛痛的。相比这下,Paula的这款产品换了一款刺激性小的溶剂,自然在适用性上大大提高。下面是这款产品的成分表:

Water, Methylpropanediol (slip agent/water-binding agent), Salicylic Acid (beta hydroxy acid/exfoliant), Hydroxyethylcellulose (gel-based thickener), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract (antioxidants), Epilobium Angustifolium (Willow Herb) Extract, Bisabolol (anti-irritants), Phytosphingosine (skin-conditioning agent), Sodium Hydroxide (pH balancer), Tetrasodium EDTA (preservative).

Paula’s Choice的水杨酸的产品线,有1%和2%两种。不过个人建议还是使用2%的,效果明显,见效快。

关于这款产品,以下是自己的几点使用心得,仅供参考:

使用心得
  1. 如果痘痘不发的时候,建议每晚1次,作为巩固。不要因为皮肤好了就轻易停用,皮肤28天一个周期,由好转坏容易的很。
  2. 如果有一段时间不发痘痘了,可以停用。之后依赖良好的生活习惯、少吃冰冷食品、高糖成分、做好保湿来避免痘痘复发。如果不幸复发,参看下一条。
  3. 如果开始发痘痘了,提高到每天2次,对于发出来的地方甚至可以适当多涂抹些,甚至中午重点补涂。
  4. 用这东西,最好配合防晒霜,除非你每天遇见阳光的几率非常低。
  5. 水杨酸也不是灵丹妙药,我个人的经验,发痘痘后涂抹1周左右可以开始显著好转并控制住。此类产品坚持使用是最最最最关键的!
  6. 如果你黑头明显,建议用鼻贴或者去按摩院先清理一下。水杨酸虽然有去黑头白头的功效,但是靠其溶解实在是过于缓慢。还不如一次性去除,然后依靠水杨酸来巩固,缓解新黑头的产生。
  7. 使用水杨酸后一段时间,抚摸皮肤有时会感受到一些轻微的突起。这一般是本来要爆发但是被水杨酸控制住的痘痘,现在已经变成了一颗小小的脂肪粒。轻轻挤压附近的皮肤,就可以把其挤出,对皮肤的伤害远小于痘痘爆发后用针挑破。
  8. 一瓶118毫升的产品,如果大多数时候每天用1次,阶段性每天用2次,全脸涂抹大概可以用10-12个月。
  9. 如果痘痘挤破后再使用水杨酸,记得此部位一定要连续使用,即使痘痘消去了也要继续,直到疤痕撤离愈合,而且颜色也回复正常皮肤的颜色。这是避免痘印出现的一个好办法。

salicylic acid: Referred to as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), it is a multifunctional ingredient that addresses many of the systemic causes of blemishes (Source: Seminars in Dermatology, December 1990, pages 305�308). For decades dermatologists have been prescribing salicylic acid as an exceedingly effective keratolytic (exfoliant), but it also is an anti-irritant This is because salicylic acid is a derivative of aspirin (both are salicylates�aspirin�s technical name is acetyl salicylic acid), and so it also functions as an anti-inflammatory. (Sources: Archives of Internal Medicine, July 2002, pages 1531�1532; Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, January 2002, pages 137�142; Archives of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 1390�1395; and Pain, January 1996, pages 71�82). Another notable aspect of salicylic acid for treating breakouts is that it has antimicrobial properties (Source: Preservatives for Cosmetics, 1996, by David Steinberg, Allured Publishing; and Health Canada Monograph Category IV, Antiseptic Cleansers, at www.hc-sc.gc.ca/english/). It is also well documented that it can improve skin thickness, barrier functions, and collagen production (Sources: Dermatology, 1999, volume 199, number 1, pages 50�53; and Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, Volume 175, Issue 1, pages 76�82). As an exfoliant, in concentrations of 8% to 12%, it is effective in wart-remover medications. In concentrations of 0.5% to 2%, it is far more gentle, and, much like AHAs (See AHAs), can exfoliate the surface of skin. In addition, BHA has the ability to penetrate into the pore (AHAs do not), and thus can exfoliate inside the pore as well on the surface of the skin; that makes it effective for reducing blemishes, including blackheads and whiteheads.